What to read if you enjoy surf bios
Australia's hottest 100 surfing legends by Phil Jarratt
Perpetually broke, he would eat a spider for a beer, or drink mud from a puddle for a bite of a pie. The history of Australian surfing has been full of pioneers, outlaws, hooligans, and mavericks. This lavishly illustrated book features many rare and archival images, along with hundreds of gorgeous contemporary surf shots, Australia's Hottest 100 Surfing Legends is a feast for the eyes. Packed with behind-the-scenes anecdotes from insider author Phil Jarratt, this is a riveting account of the pioneers behind Australian surfing's past, and the mavericks who are now moulding its future. |
Bustin' down the door by Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew and Tim Baker
From street urchin to world surfing champion to boardroom heavyweight, this edition of the bestselling cult classic captures all the intrigue and adventure of Wayne 'Rabbit' Bartholomew's remarkable personal journey. World Champion in 1978, World Masters Champion in 1999, and CEO/President of the Association of Surfing Professionals for ten years, Rabbit's charisma, flamboyance and warrior spirit have helped define surfing over three decades. In 2009, he was honoured for his contribution to surfing, being appointed a Member of the Order of Australia. BUSTIN' DOWN THE DOOR is a story of unfaltering self-belief, of immense hardship and struggle, and of hilariously wild times, as Rabbit sets off from Australia's Gold Coast, surfboard under his arm, to conquer the surfing world. From spartan days of living on rice and oats while tackling the huge waves of Hawaii, to a glorious rollercoaster ride of parties, fast cars and perfect waves, Rabbit recalls outrageous adventures shared with surfing's most famous figures - including Nat Young, Michael Peterson, Mark Richards, Tom Carroll and Kelly Slater. |
Be unstoppable: the art of never giving up by Bethany Hamilton
After losing her left arm to a 14-foot tiger shark and returning to the competitive surfing waters a month later, author and champion surfer Bethany Hamilton is the heroine in one of the biggest comeback stories of our era. In Be Unstoppable, Bethany shares how faith, love, and passion have been the fuel to push her beyond all expectations. Alongside her insights are spectacular, full-colour photos of Bethany the world-class surfer in action, capturing both her mastery of her sport as well as the beauty and raw power of the ocean. Whether in school, sports, faith, or friendships, the tenacity, courage, and wisdom that pops from these pages will help you find the unstoppable in your own life. Be bold. Be inspired. Be unstoppable. Borrow on the Inaburra eLibrary |
Surf for your life: Mick Fanning, by Tim Baker
World champion surfer Mick Fanning may only be twenty-eight, but he's already experienced more than most of us ever will. Mick's journey so far has definitely been a mixed bag, but it is the extremes of that journey that make him so interesting. Mick tells his life story candidly - in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-deprecating - while providing intimate insights into personal lessons gained along the way; with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies and sports psychology. His story proves that what doesn't kill you really can make you stronger. Ultimately, though, it's Mick's humanity, his readiness to give back, that might provide the greatest surprise and inspiration. |
Walking on water, by Jeremy V. Jones
Surfing is spiritual. Ask most wave riders and they’ll describe some sense of deeper connection with the water, the waves or the power around them. Surfing to them is a spiritual experience. In a subculture that’s traditionally known for its rebellion, here you’ll find a deep undercurrent of faith amongst these top wave riders who share an understanding that the Creator of the waves also desires to know and relate with them. In these pages, you’ll meet top surfers such as C.J. Hobgood, who rose to the top of the surf world but found it ultimately dissatisfying; Bethany Hamilton, a courageous teen who survived a shark attack and returned to the sport; surf legend Tom Curren, a middle-aged father of four whose comeback of sorts is the talk of the surf world; and Al Merrick, a remarkable surfboard shaper who crafts the vehicles ridden by surf stars. Discover what makes these celebrities and others believe that surfing is meaningless without a deep satisfying faith in something more. |
Occy: The rise and fall of Mark Occhilupo, by Tim Baker and Mark Occhilupo
Child star at 16, ranked third in the world at 17, Mark Occhilupo looked set to sweep all before him with a radical, spontaneous, irresistible brand of surfing. Yet a spiralling descent into drug abuse and depression snuffed his flame out prematurely when he quit the pro tour at just 22. Faltered comebacks, spectacular bursts of free-surfing, and manic breakdowns followed as the surfing world watched a freakish talent self-combust. After years spent immobile and overweight on the couch, Occy eventually emerged from his cocoon, reborn and ready to tackle a whole new generation of surf stars. His celebrated comeback to win the world title in 1999 is a sporting fairytale without equal. In this no-holds barred account, Occy tells the complete, remarkable story of his spectacular rise, terrifying fall, and miraculous rebirth. |
Pipe dreams: A surfer's journey, by Kelly Slater and Jason Borte
Six-time world surfing champion, actor, and American heartthrob Kelly Slater tells his inspiring story of triumph over adversity. From Beach Blanket Bingo to Baywatch to Blue Crush, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport’s hottest star. He has won more world championships than any other competitor, and he continues to change peoples’ minds about what can and can’t be done on a surfboard. His wild ride has included fame, fortune, a stint on Baywatch, and a high-profile relationship with Pamela Anderson. Not bad for a skinny kid from a broken home in Cocoa Beach, Florida. In Pipe Dreams, Kelly takes the reader into oceans around the world to take on thunderous walls of water and shares the outrageous stories, solemn moments, and undeniable spirit that have made him a superstar. |
Just add water: A surfing savant's journey with Asperger's, by Clay Marzo and Robert Yehling
Clay Marzo has an almost preternatural gift with a surfboard. From his first moments underwater (he learned to swim at two months old) to his first ventures atop his father’s surfboard as a toddler, it was obvious that Marzo’s single-minded focus on all things surfing was unique. But not until late in his teens, when this surfing phenom was diagnosed with Asperger’s syndrome, did the deeper reasons for his obsession- and his astonishing gift for surfing- become clear. Unflinching and inspiring, Just Add Water is a brave memoir from a one-of-a-kind surfing savant who has electrified fans around the world with his gift and whose story speaks boldly to the hope and ultimate triumph of the human spirit. |
Mark Richards: A surfing legend, by David Knox Mark Richards was World Surfing Champion from 1979 to 1984 and is today considered to be one of the world's most renowned and gifted surfers. In 1991 he was noted in the American magazine "Surfing World" as the top surfer out of a list of 100. This biography looks at his life, his career, including its highlights and setbacks, and the more personal issues that have changed his life including the death of his child from Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). |
Eddie would go, by Stuart Holmes Coleman
In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a. Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. |
If you'd like to read fictional books about surfing...
Kook, by Chris Vick Fifteen-year old Sam has moved from the big city to the coast of England- stuck there with his mom and sister on the edge of nowhere. Then he meets beautiful but damaged surfer-girl Jade. Soon he’s in love with her, and with surfing itself. But Jade is driven by an obsession: finding a legendary huge wave no one has ever ridden. As the weeks wear on, their relationship barrels forward with the force of a deep-water wave- into a storm, danger…and heartbreak. |
Chasing mavericks, by Christine Peymani Based on the inspirational true story of surfing icon Jay Moriarity, Chasing Mavericks tells the story of a young man's quest to surf Northern California's most dangerous waves, and the local legend who takes him under his wing. What begins as a mentorship turns into a unique bond, as the two unlikely friends discover that there is nothing more powerful than pushing your limits and chasing a nearly impossible dream. |
Updated October 2021
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